An Interview from Karen London
I don’t know if you know this, but Dr Martens, the iconic military inspired boot from the 70s through the 90s, sported by everyone from Gwen Stefani to The Clash, to the cast of Friends, is launching a collection with the, just as iconic, Agyness Deyn. The limited edition collection is made up of shoes, accessories, and clothing, and will be launched in the UK, and on shelves worldwide in August. The girl behind the collaboration is designer Tracy Moore, who is currently in London with Agyness to promote the line. This 27 year old woman, with short blunt bangs took her first step into the fashion world only 4 years ago, but since has designed everything from lingerie for Bacini to shoes for Satine Boutique owner, Jeannie Lee. Being a good friend of Karen London’s Vice President this talented young woman took a break from her whirlwind of a career to sit down and talk with us. Here’s some insight into this designer on rise, her luck, inspiration from her Father, and her personal take on style.
KL: So, Tracy, I have to say, your sense of style is so unique. When did you know you stood out from the crowd?
Tracy: I never really thought of it as “standing out”. Dressing can be an entertaining source of personal creation, if that makes sense. I get bored easily and I’ve always enjoyed the art of mashing up different styles.
KL: Who do you find you lean towards in terms of inspirations? Whether it is fashion, musical, art… Who moves YOU?
Tracy: I like to pull from emotion. It’s easy for me to understand the aesthetic of all the different street/style subcultures from club kids to women who wear strictly Dries, because I can relate with so many different types of expression, and so many designers. I can see where they come from.
KL: Tell us about your work with Bacini and Satine. You scored those pretty early on as a FIDM student. Did you have any idea what that meant at the time, what you’d learn, etc, etc…
Tracy: My god, I really got lucky with those! It was a learning experience to work with major players like Jeanne. My real strength, I think, is the fact that I can draw. I would have definitely done things differently, now that I have much more experience under my belt, but I had to learn.
KL: You were one of just 11 students at FIDM chosen to premiere an entire runway collection. What was the very first thing that came to mind when you found out you’d been selected?
Tracy: The first thing I thought was that I had better not embarrass myself! It’s really a rare occasion that some young fashion dork actually gets to create a collection and send it down the runway. I just didn’t want to mess it up.
KL: Your inspiration for your collection stood out from the crowd. I’ve heard it was based on your father’s painting from the 80′s. Tell us what moved you to design your entire line around something like that?
Tracy: Firstly, thank you for thinking I stood out. I was in a class with quite a pile of young remarkable people.
I started with a very different inspiration. Namely the fluidity of waves and solidity of pillars and structures….and I had planned to do all sorts of crazy hand crafted dresses encased in suits but I couldn’t find the prints and colors I had in mind (a constant grief, I imagine, for most designers who don’t own an enormous fashion house), so two months into the program I had to scrap everything, and I was scared out of my mind! I love things that clash, and there’s a particular type of feeling that comes from just the right amount of un-expected… This is where one of my father’s paintings came in. It’s a painting he did in 1984, the year I was born entitled “Spring”. I think it’s wonderful, because the colors feel timeless and almost unintentional, like a really random dream. I took it right off the canvas and had it digitally printed onto fabric, then created silhouettes which I felt matched the attitude of the painting… I could really go on and on, but in the end all that matters is that it was good enough to get someone to want the clothes.
KL: So, fresh out of FIDM and you’re already in London, designing Agyness Deyn’s collaboration with Dr. Martens. Tell us, how do you feel?! What is the process like? Any interesting tid bits about the line? Or about the collaboration?
Tracy: The whole ordeal changed my viewpoint on collaborations. I always thought (selfishly) that collaborations took away from the poor starving designer and kind of sold out the whole notion of designing clothes – but in reality, behind every one of them is a pile of young people supporting the line, so it actually gives more opportunities to everyone in the business.
Agyness comes up with the inspiration and ideas, and I’m the facilitator who comes up with the options, fabrications and style elements which bring her idea to life. But to do this you really have to understand where a person is coming from, or you’ll alter their vision. We just design and make things she’s craving, clothing wise. She has such an original point of view, and it’s such a privilege to work with her. The line is meant to be fun and crazy streetwear – definitely not for the meek. It’s a bit of a risk, since we’re designing based on how you dress and style yourself….as opposed to the traditional method of creating a standard “cohesive collection” from colors and silhouettes. The Doc Martens customer is such a massive blend of so many styles, so we approached it more like “I like this, it’s awesome, let’s make it”.
This week we finally sat back and looked at the whole collection coming out in August. I noticed it gives a bit of a middle finger to conventional fashion, but I think that’s just a perfect byproduct of working with Doc Martens… It’s in the blood of the shoe.
KL: I saw your post about how you miss Starbucks coffee while across the pond…any other things you’d like to share (thoughts) or images from your stay in London Town so far.
Tracy: Traveling alone is a bit scary. To me, anyway, because I don’t travel much & and I prefer the company of others. And with the time difference I’ve been waking up at 5 every day so I’m kind of out of my mind at the moment. Everything is so beautiful but so surreal… Like Disneyland but the cars will actually hit you!
KL: We are truly so excited for you Tracy. We are wishing you huge success, but then again… That’s already written in the stars.
TRACY: I’m lucky to be surrounded by such excellent friends!!! Thank you so very much.